Leading Everest Worker Ang Nima Sherpa Dies at 59
Ang Nima Sherpa died in his village of Pangboche at age 59 on January 25. He was the leader and one of the longest-serving members of the "Icefall Doctors," a group of high-altitude workers who...
View ArticleRare Trad M10 Goes Up in Italy
January 27-30, Austrian climbers Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established Senza Piombo (WI5 M10, 5 pitches), one of the hardest, traditionally protected mixed routes in the world, right up...
View ArticleM8 Pushes Limits of Ground-Up Trad Mixed Climbing in WY
Aaron Mulkey, who has been called "the patriarch of ice climbing in Cody, Wyoming," has led a new line in the South Fork of the Shoshone Valley. Defibrillator (M8, 40m) is among the hardest mixed...
View ArticleAntarctic Spire Summited in 'Big-Wall Sufferfest'
Leo Houlding, Sean "Stanley" Leary, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and filmmaker Alastair Lee completed a new route up the northeast ridge of Ulvetanna (2931m), just shy of 72 degrees south in Queen...
View ArticlePoles Make First Winter Ascent of Broad Peak
Newsflash: The following newsflash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more...
View ArticleThe Winter of Mixed Climbing, Sans Bolts
Rarely have mixed climbing standards been pushed so far in a single winter. In Wyoming and Washington, Switzerland, Norway and Scotland, climbers are torquing their way up rock faces to thin ribbons...
View ArticleBerbeka, Kowalski Missing After Broad Peak First Winter Ascent
On March 5, Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8047m) in expedition style. On the descent, Bielecki and...
View ArticleWANTED: Height of Land Publications Board of Directors member
Man or woman "wanted for hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honor and recognition in case of success." --Ernest...
View ArticleHelander, Stuckey Climb Apocalyptic FA in Revelations
It seemed doubtful the trip would even happen. Bad weather had locked Clint Helander in Anchorage for 10 days, forcing one of his partners to drop out. Another, Aaron Thrasher, was running very short...
View ArticlePiolets d'Or 2013: Six Nominees, Six Awards
On April 5 in Courmayeur, Italy, the Piolets d'Or jury--Stephen Venables, Silvo Karo, Katsutaka Yokoyama and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner--awarded all six of the nominated ascents with golden ice axes. They...
View ArticleNew Grade VI Goes Up in Kichatnas
Just after midnight on April 5 and only 12 hours after being flow in and dropped off on the glacier, Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas began ascending the east face of The Citadel in...
View ArticleBullock and Robertson Winterize Scottish Rock Route at X,10
In most places, a "winter ascent" must fall between the winter solstice and spring equinox. In Scotland, the guidelines, defined by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland's Code of Good Practice, are...
View ArticleTyroleans Find Rare Ice Line in Dolomites
The Dolomites are hardly considered an ice-climbing destination. The range is instead known for long rock routes and via ferratas on soft and sometimes crumbling dolomite. In winter, it is...
View ArticleNew Scottish Grade VIII, 8 on Aiguille du Midi
We've all seen it. At some point an area gets "climbed out." The plums have all been picked, routes crisscross the faces, and any "new" lines seem contrived, not natural. Nowhere is this truer than...
View ArticleMooses Tooth: 5 Climbers, 3 Lines, 10 Days
In a 10-day period this month, three new lines went up on the rarely climbed east side of the Mooses Tooth, just outside Alaska's Ruth Gorge. All three lines took direct routes through the steep...
View ArticleThe Everest Debacle: Full Report Pending
Newsflash: Since April 27, a disagreement above Camp II on the Lhotse Face of Everest (and the events that followed) has generated a series of reports and speculation. The incident involved a group of...
View ArticlePeter Doucette and Silas Rossi Link Thin Smears in Ruth Gorge
The prime conditions on eastern aspects in the Ruth Gorge, result of heavy snow- and rainfall last year and cold temperatures this spring, enabled another new line, this time on a 7,500-foot satellite...
View ArticlePeter Doucette and Silas Rossi Link Thin Smears in Ruth Gorge
route-shot The prime conditions on eastern aspects in the Ruth Gorge, result of heavy snow- and rainfall last year and cold temperatures this spring, enabled another new line, this time on a...
View ArticleBerbeka, Kowalski Missing After Broad Peak First Winter Ascent
On March 5, Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8047m) in expedition style. On the descent, Bielecki and...
View ArticleNewsflash: Russian Dies Attempting New Route on Everest
Newsflash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more...
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