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Japanese team completes first ascent of Kangchung Nup's NW face in Nepal
[Photo] Courtesy of Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada After several attempts by talented climbers in recent years, two alpinists from Japan completed the first ascent of the Northwest Face of...
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Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell et al. climb two new routes on Alaska's Pyramid...
[The following trip report by Jackson Marvell details two new routes on Pyramid Peak in Alaska's Revelation Range that he climbed with Matt Cornell in early-mid April: Techno Terror (AI6 M7+ R A0,...
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American Alpine Club announces Cutting Edge Grant recipients
The American Alpine Club (AAC) has announced the 2022 Cutting Edge Grant recipients: Chantel Astorga, Alan Rousseau, Jerome Sullivan and Priti Wright. The recipients and their partners will attempt...
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Full Circle Everest team summits: first Black expedition to the top of the world
The Full Circle Everest expedition. Expedition leader Phil Henderson is third from left in the back row. [Photo] James Edward Mills Full Circle Everest--the first all-Black expedition team (with with...
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Jon Nicolodi frees two classic mixed lines in his home state of New Hampshire
Jon Nicolodi starts up the crux pitch of The Resistance, a pick seam that widens to a 5-inch offwidth, on an attempt last February. [Photo] Adam Bidwell Jon Nicolodi has had a busy season. In March,...
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Fast times on Slovak Direct: Two teams blitz one of Denali's hardest routes...
[As the original story was about to be published, news broke that the route had been climbed even faster. The accounts of each ascent are mostly presented here in chronological order.--Ed.] Matt...
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Two new big wall routes completed on Alaska's Kichatna Spire
Two new big-wall aid routes reached the rarely visited summit of Kichatna Spire (8,985') in the Alaska Range within the past few weeks. From May 23 to 27, Americans David Allfrey, Whit Magro and...
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Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks
[This story has been updated to clarify that Billi Bierling is not directly involved with the research and that Kangchenjunga, believed to be sacred by local religions, is not among the peaks that are...
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A new variation to Camp 2 and a speed ascent on Nanga Parbat
Francois "Franz" Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco climbing the Aosta Valley Express variation (AI 90� M6 85�, 1400m) up to Camp 2 (ca. 6000m) on the Kinshofer Route on Nanga Parbat (8125m). [Photo]...
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Madaleine Sorkin becomes the first woman to free climb Dunn-Westbay Direct...
On August 10, Madaleine Sorkin, 40, enjoyed a no-falls day on the Dunn-Westbay Direct (IV 5.14-, 4 pitches, 1,000') on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou'u, 14,255') in Rocky Mountain National...
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Derek Franz begins new role as editor-in-chief of Alpinist
Derek Franz and friends avoiding the usual mule train of climbers on Pingora's Northeast Buttress (5.8)--one of the "Fifty Crowded Classics" of North America--by climbing it in drizzly weather in...
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Alpinist hires Abbey Collins as assistant editor
Abbey Collins on the summit of Mt. Beelzebub (7,280') in Alaska's Chugach Mountains, 2021. [Photo] Andrew Holman Alpinist is delighted to welcome Abbey Collins to its team as an assistant editor. She...
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Remembering Ed Webster: 1956-2022
Ed Webster overlooking the valley of Indian Creek and the shadow of the Bridger Jack spires, 1984. [Photo] Jeff Achey One of climbing's great Renaissance figures, Ed Webster, 66, died of natural...
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New route on Mt. Dickey, Alaska: Aim For the Bushes
[Over a three-day push from March 31 to April 2, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. They named their line Aim...
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