Austrians Establish Multipitch, Runout 5.13 in Corsica
Auer watches his footwork above Mayr's belay. The duo has climbed together from the Dolomites to Norway and Patagonia. [Photo] Elias Holzknecht On March 20, Austrians Hansjoerg Auer and Much Mayr...
View ArticleHallucinations and Endless Wallowing--Team Climbs New Route on Mt. Dickey
Jason Stuckey leads the first belayed pitch off the glacier early on March 20. The ice was more neve than ice, so while protection was limited, the sticks were solid. From here, the route continues up...
View ArticleUK Guides Find Hidden Gems in the Alps
Matt Helliker on the crux of Mastabas, pitch 4, rated M7, Pyramid du Tacul, Mont Blanc Massif. [Photo] Jon Bracey The Alps, especially within the Mont Blanc massif, are rarely thought of as ripe with...
View ArticleTom Ballard Solos the Six Great North Walls in Calendar Winter: An Interview
Tom Ballard works up steep snow slopes on the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo on December 21, 2014. [Photo] Gloria Ramirez On March 19, the last full day of winter, 26-year-old British alpinist...
View ArticleEmotional Atrophy in the Revelation Range
Clint Helander leading Emotional Atrophy's (Grade 4 M6 WI5 A0, 3,280') first crux. Tad McCrea took this photo during the first attempt on the peak, on March 20. The successful ascent was completed...
View ArticleHighlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or
From left to right: Tommy Caldwell, Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic, Aleksander Gukov, Sir Chris Bonington, Aleksey Lonchinskiy, Tut Braithwaite, Doug Scott, Marko Prezelj. [Photo] Menno Boermans Each year, a...
View ArticleBig, Blobby Jugs: Haley and Hart Climb New Route on Colfax Peak
Sarah Hart follows Colin Haley's lead on pitch 3 of their new route, Kimchi Suicide Volcano (M5 R AI4+, 1,000'). They climbed the route on April 9 in approximately 6 hours. On March 6, they completed...
View ArticleRemembering Janusz Kurczab
Janusz Kurczab on the East Wall of Mynarczyk in 1964. [Photo] Janusz Kurczab collection Janusz Kurczab, one of Poland's legendary expedition leaders, died at 77 on April 11. Kurczab, born in 1937, was...
View ArticleNepal's Earthquake Aftermath
[Photo] Courtesy Elia Saikaly/6 Summits Challenge More than 2,500 dead, Powerful Aftershocks Ravage Himalaya, Everest Climbers Evacuated A day after Nepal's devastating 7.8 earthquake (USGS estimate),...
View ArticleThousands Reported Dead in Langtang Valley
Langtang Lirung (7277m), image taken in 2006. [Photo] John C Sill/Wikimedia Commons With much of the news focus on Nepal's devastating earthquake of April 25 centering on Kathmandu and Everest Base...
View ArticleThe Quake's Impact on the Langtang Valley, Nepal
Langtang Lirung (7277m) [Photo] John C Sill/Wikimedia Commons With much of the news focus on Nepal's devastating earthquake of April 25 centering on Kathmandu and Everest Base Camp, other regions...
View ArticleLangtang Valley Update
Prayer flags in the Langtang Himal. [Photo] Sudan Shrestha/Wikimedia Commons The estimated number of people dead in Langtang village has increased since we reported on the earthquake's impact on that...
View ArticleBilbao Mendi Film Festival Opens for Entries
Clint Eastwood in 1974 during the rope-cutting scene of the cult classic The Eiger Sanction, filmed on the North Face of the Eiger (3970m) in the Swiss Alps. This image is on the cover of Alpinist 41....
View ArticleEmotional Release on Argonaut Peak
This past Sunday, April 26, Vern Nelson Jr. and I were finally able to piece together a mixed route on the north face of Argonaut Peak (8,451'). We had tried the route six times over the past two...
View ArticleRecovery Efforts Continue in Nepal's Mountain Villages
Women in Rapasing, Nepal. [Photo] UK Department for International Development/Narendra Shrestha/Wikimedia Commons The 7.8-magnitude April 25 earthquake in Nepal has created a huge human tragedy. As of...
View Article7.3 Earthquake in Nepal
The epicenter of the 7.3 magnitude earthquake in Nepal, on May 12 at 12:35 a.m. [Map] USGS Early this morning, May 12, a 7.3 magnitude-earthquake struck Nepal between Kathmandu and Everest, near...
View ArticleNew Route on the East Face of Jezebel
Over three days starting on April 3, UK climbers Peter Graham (poking out of the tent) and Ben Silvestre ascended the previously unclimbed east face of Jezebel (9,650') to reach the northeast summit...
View ArticleRotten Ice, Whisky and Vertical Talus in the Revelations
Chris Thomas leading Pitch 4, "mostly 5.10 rock with a few snow cornices," says Rick Vance, on their route Mandarin Mounty (5.10 WI5+ A2, 2,300'), Seraph (8,540') in the Revelations Mountains, Alaska....
View ArticleBerg and DeTray Author Illusions of the Raven
Alik Berg high on the East Face of the Mooses Tooth (10,335'), on his and Skiy DeTray's new route Illusions of the Raven (WI4 R 5.9 A4, 5,000'), established May 2-7, 2015, Ruth Gorge, Alaska. [Photo]...
View ArticleRebuilding Nepal From Near and Afar
Destruction in Nepal after the April 25 earthquake. [Photo] Sumit Joshi [In the aftermath of the 2015 Nepal earthquake disaster, writer Pema Sherpa reports on the efforts of local Nepalis and the...
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