Gasherbrum V Alpine-Style First Ascent Realized
The Gasherbrum group. Gasherbrum V (7147m) is second from the right. The third tallest peak in the group, it saw its first ascent this summer when Korean climbers Nak-jong Seong and Chi-young Ahn...
View ArticleTwo Missing in Avalanche on Shishapangma
[Photo] Wikimedia Commons In the afternoon of September 23rd, 2014 at 4:30 PM (Nepalese Time), Benedikt Bohm (37) and Ueli Steck (38) began their speed ascent attempt of Himalayan peak Shisha Pangma...
View ArticleLempe and Pringle Weed Out New Route in Yosemite
Ethan Pringle climbs out of a large roof on The Constant Gardener, a 1,000-foot aid line he established with Cheyne Lempe on Yosemite's Higher Cathedral Rock in September. Pringle had hoped to...
View ArticleFrench Mountain Guide Murdered in Algeria
The Agoulmime Lake, located in Algeria's Tizi Ouzou region. Herve Gourdel, who was traveling in the region to assess a new climbing area, was beheaded last week by Algerian rebels aligned with the...
View Article2015 Mugs Stump Award Opens for Applications October 1, 2014
From October 1 through December 1, 2014, the 2015 Mugs Stump Award will be accepting grant applications from small climbing teams with fast and light alpine objectives. Established in 1993 to honor...
View ArticleEcuadorians Satisfy Craving without a Summit on Kyzyl Asker
Kyzyl Asker, showing the Sal con Cebolla (5.12a C1 WI5+ AI2 M6+) attempt. In August, a four-person team from Ecuador worked their way up the wall, establishing a 5700-meter highpoint on their line....
View ArticleJapanese Trio Solves 58 Pitches of Ridgeline Trickery in Pakistan
A Giri-Giri Boy route-finds while attempting to reach the summit of K7 West in Pakistan's Charakusa Valley. After 58 pitches, Ryo Masumoto, Takaaki Nagato and Katsutaka "Jumbo" Yokoyama topped out on...
View ArticleRepetition on Mt. Evans Yields New Traditional WI7 M9 Mixed Route
Will Mayo re-climbs his new route, Shooting Star (WI7 M9), on Mt Evans' Black Wall a week after the first ascent. Belayed by Ben Collett, he exits the route's technical crux, preparing for the thin...
View ArticleFrenchmen Link Tiers of Vertical Ice to Siula Chico Summit
Looking for the Void (WI6 R M7, 900m), west face of Siula Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash. The route's name references the book Touching the Void, written by Joe Simpson about his descent of nearby Siula...
View ArticleMayo Adds Another Hard Mixed Line to CO Black Wall
Black Wall, Mt. Evans, Colorado, showing The Ghost (WI6 M10, 50m) routeline marked with Ps for "piton." The corner to the right is Shooting Star (WI7 M9). The line of icicles and curtains is...
View ArticleBrumbaugh, Pizem Paint the Black Canyon Black
Rob Pizem climbs a technical 5.11 face on his new route, Any Color You Like As Long As It's Black (5.11+ PG), which he established with Mike Brumbaugh in the Black Canyon earlier this month. In this...
View ArticleTeams Smoke Speed Records on El Cap
Skiy Detray wonders what not to bring on his speed ascent of Zenyatta Mondatta (VI 5.7 A4), one of two record-breaking climbs up El Capitan this month. [Photo] Cheyne Lempe On October 3, David...
View ArticleThe Great Shark Hunt: Free Climbing Greenland's Scoresby Sund
Shark's Tooth, Scoresby Sund fjord, Greenland, showing the new route The Great Shark Hunt (5.12c, 900m). The team also climbed 1800m up "the most beautiful mountain in the area," which they called...
View ArticleSwiss Trio Finds FAs in India's Kishtwar
Stephan Siegrist climbing Maaji (IV WI3 75 degrees), a new route that marks the first ascent of a 5885-meter peak his team called "Shiepra." [Photo] visualimpact.ch | Thomas Senf Swiss climbers...
View ArticleTrio Uncovers 2,000' of Ice in Beartooths
Aaron Mulkey follows a long vein of ice he and two partners climbed in the Beartooths on October 19. [Photo] Chris Guyer Tanner Callender, Chris Guyer and Aaron Mulkey ticked a new mixed route in the...
View ArticlePermit Fiasco Leads Two Teams to One Kishtwar Peak
Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic cross the ridge from north summit of Hagshu to its main summit (6657m). The two Slovenians, along with veteran alpinist Marko Prezelj, made the first ascent of Hagshu's...
View ArticleChantel Astorga Inches Closer to Sub-24-hour Nose Solo
Astorga attempting an in-a-day solo ascent of the Nose on October 24. She passed numerous teams, ran out of water, dropped an aider and jumar, yet still topped out in 25:40. [Photo] Tom Evans Chantel...
View ArticleMountaineering Students Ace Exam with First Ascent
Base camp in the Kyasar valley, Nepal. [Photo] courtesy Mikel Zabalza A Spanish team finished a three-year mountaineering course with the first ascent of a 6000er in the Kyasar valley, Nepal, last...
View ArticleSouth Chasm View Wall Climbed Ground Up, Free
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, where Bergner, Kalous and Wharton established and freed a new linkup, Event Horizon (5.12, 1,500'), on the South Chasm View Wall (left). [Photo] Jesse Varner This...
View ArticleTeams Make Alpine-Style Ascents in Rolwaling Himal
The north ridge of Chukyima Go (ca. 6258m), Rolwaling Himal, Nepal. Last month, a Slovenian-American team made the peak's first reported ascent by its west face, one of several new routes to...
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