Fowler and Turnbull Make First Ascent in Nepal
News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist.com will post a full NewsWire when more information becomes available.-Ed According to a...
View ArticleAlpinist Redpoints Cover Misses Onsight
September 9, 2011 The staff has proofread and signed off on the cover for Alpinist 36. Art Director Michael Lorenz opens a file, hot keys "A" to change his cursor into a pointer tool and saves the...
View ArticleChinese American Team Makes First Ascent of 6060m Mt. Yangmolong
On October 20 (2011) Jon Otto, Liu Yong (Daliu), Su Rongqin (Asu), and Tim Boelter made the first successful ascent of Mt. Yangmolong (6060m) in western Sichuan province of China. The conditions were...
View ArticleFather-Son Team Establish New Route on Monte Rosa Massif
On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa...
View ArticleKoreans Missing on Annapurna Presumed Dead
The search for three missing Korean climbers on Annapurna was suspended on Saturday, October 29 following ten days without a sign of the team. Park Young-Seok, Shin Dong-Min and Kang Ki-Seokwere were...
View ArticleInes Papert and Wolfgang Russegger's Quantum of Solace
Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger completed the first ascent of Quantum of Solace (ABO WI 7+ M7, 600m) on the Great Walls of China, a series of walls over 5000m, in the Kokshaal-Too range on the...
View ArticleFowler Turnbull Climb Gojung UPDATE
The following is an update to this NewsFlash. -Ed This October British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull made the first ascent of the remote peak in Nepal, Gojung (6310m). Gojung is located...
View ArticleUrubko and Durov Awarded Piolet d'Or Asia
On November 4, 2011, in Seoul, Korea, Denis Urubko and his partner Gennady Durov won the Piolets d'Or Asia for their route Dollar Rod (6b) on Pik Pobeda (7439m), which they established in August. This...
View ArticleTwo Die on Grandes Jorasses
After nearly a week of attempted rescues, guide Olivier Sourzac and client Charlotte Demetz were confirmed dead on November 9, 2011, after climbing the north face of Grandes Jorasses (4208m). Sourzac,...
View ArticleHoulding's Prophet Sees Second Ascent
On November 16, Canadians Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope repeated Leo Houlding's famed route The Prophet (5.13dR, 600m) on El Cap. Trotter and Stanhope spent five weeks in Yosemite Valley working...
View ArticleGottlieb and Kellogg Make First Ascent in Fifty Hour Push
On November 11, David Gottlieb and Chad Kellogg made the first ascent of Nepal's Pangbuk Ri (6716m) in fifty hours, camp to camp. They reached the summit via the South Face (VI, AI5, M5,1400m) in just...
View ArticleNorwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap
In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistan's Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki...
View ArticleAvoiding Creepy Crawlies on Tioman Island
On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress (5.10R/X,...
View ArticleStandhardt's South Face
Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour...
View ArticleChinese Trifecta on Home Ground
The Chinese team of Yan DongDong and Zhou Peng established three new routes in the Minya Konka Range of China's Sichuan Province. The pair climbed the north face of Reddomain (6112m), the west face of...
View ArticleRussian/Ukrainian Women Climb New Route on Great Trango
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b...
View ArticleFrench Succesfully Traverse Cordillera Darwin
This fall a French military team spent a month navigating the Cordillera Darwin in Chilean Tierra del Fuego. Lionel Albrieux, Sebastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Sebastien Ratel and Francois Savary,...
View ArticleKutcher Takes Ouray 2012
Mild weather and thick ice welcomed more than 3,000 climbers from around the world to the 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival this weekend at the Ouray Ice Park in southwest Colorado. An early season of...
View Article2012 Mugs Stump Grant Recipients
2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond...
View ArticlePress Release: Joss Cam Recall
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Joss Rock Climbing Cam Units Recalled by Sierra Trading Post Due to a Fall Hazard; Sold Exclusively by Sierra Trading Post. WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety...
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